Sài Gòn quê tôi

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Sài Gòn quê tôi, hồi nào tới giờ, vẫn sôi động mà bình dị, dung nạp sự đa dạng, có khi hỗn độn, nhưng luôn rạch ròi phải quấy, đúng sai, giữa đường thấy chuyện bất bình là ra tay hay lên tiếng.

Tôi sanh ra ở Sài Gòn, vì vậy, coi Sài Gòn là quê mình. Đi du học, một hôm bỗng mấy bác lớn tuổi cắc cớ hỏi đám sinh viên quê ở đâu. Trả lời: “Dạ, con quê Sài Gòn”. Mấy bác cười ồ: “Quê gì mà quê Sài Gòn? Ông bà, cha mẹ cháu sanh ra ở đâu? Phải có nơi chôn nhau cắt rún chớ!”. Tôi ngơ ngác: “Nếu vậy, quê cha con ở Ba Tri, má ở Mỏ Cày”. Mọi người hể hả: “À, nó là dân Bến Tre”. Tôi ấm ức, mình sanh ra ở Sài Gòn, thì “chôn nhau cắt rún” ở Sài Gòn chớ đâu. Mà hình như khái niệm “chôn nhau cắt rún” không có nghĩa với người Sài Gòn.

Chúng tôi, cả đám bạn bè cùng học tiểu học, rồi sau đó là trung học, nói đủ thứ tiếng Bắc, Trung, Nam, bãi trường về quê nội, quê ngoại ở nhiều tỉnh khác nhau, đều cảm thấy mình là người Sài Gòn vì rất nhiều thứ khác, không liên quan gì tới chuyện “chôn nhau cắt rún”.

Sài Gòn là những tháng năm tuổi nhỏ, với bộ đồng phục bà ba vải trắng đi học tiểu học. Áo của tôi, má hà tiện gởi may từ dưới quê Ba Tri, cắt không khéo bằng mấy đứa bạn may áo ở Sài Gòn, nhưng chẳng ai để ý.

Cả đám bốn, năm đứa học trò xếp nhau ngồi chật một chiếc xích lô đi học, ngày nào cũng đi ngang chợ Vườn Chuối, ngang đường Nguyễn Thiện Thuật lúc ấy còn đầy xác chuột chết người ta vứt ra đường, xe cán dẹp lép nhìn thấy ghê. Là cái tuổi ăn tuổi lớn, nữ không hề “ăn như mèo ngửi”, mà ngoài khúc bánh mì cá hay gói xôi ăn sáng, còn thèm thuồng từng mẩu bánh mì không gặm thêm vào giờ ra chơi, từng cây cà lem, từng ly “đá nhận”, chỉ là đá bào xịt xi-rô màu xanh, đỏ. Nói gì đến chén chè khuya, trái bắp nướng hay đủ thứ “ăn hàng” khác vào bất cứ giờ nào trong ngày.

Sài Gòn  bây giờ vẫn vậy. Con tôi, sau mấy năm du học, về nhà chỉ thèm tô canh rau, mỗi ngày một thứ, nào dưa hường, bồ ngót, rau dền, mùng tơi, bông so đũa. Cũng không ngạc nhiên khi con dâu người Hà Nội cứ mỗi lần về là hăm hở đi ăn cơm tấm, bánh mì thịt Sài Gòn, chưa kể trái cây đủ loại.

Sài Gòn luôn sẵn cơ hội nếm trải đặc sản từ mọi miền đất nước, ẩm thực từ mọi quốc gia, ngon nhứt chưa chắc ở khách sạn đắt tiền mà có khi ở quán mì vịt tiềm đầu ngõ, cửa hàng sushi trong chung cư. Quan trọng hình như không chỉ ở chỗ thành phố lớn “muốn gì cũng có”, mà ở sự cởi mở, ủng hộ người từ mọi miền về đây tìm kế mưu sinh, ở lối sống bao dung, thỏa mãn rất nhiều yêu cầu, sở thích khác nhau. Và ở cả cái thú thưởng thức cuộc sống, từ miếng ăn ngon đến nụ cười hiền, lời mời xởi lởi.

Đi xa, tôi thỉnh thoảng gặp lại Sài Gòn đột ngột đến sững sờ. Một vị giáo sư Pháp chuyên gia tầm cỡ thế giới về Việt Nam, về Nam bộ, có bữa vui miệng kể: “Má tôi cứ nói tôi là thằng “đầu gà đít vịt”, bà có mặc cảm gì đâu, dân Sài Gòn mà”. Ông nói tiếng Pháp, tất nhiên, nhưng đầu gà đít vịt” tiếng Việt phát âm rất chuẩn. Tôi đâu dám khen, là “tiếng mẹ đẻ” của ông mà.

Một nhà nghiên cứu đưa tôi đi thăm trại Cafi ở miền Nam nước Pháp, nơi sinh sống suốt nhiều thập niên của những phụ nữ có con với lính Pháp, lính lê dương hay viên chức Pháp ở Việt Nam thời thuộc địa, bị tập trung tới đây cùng những đứa con của họ sau năm 1954.

Tôi gặp nhiều người Việt các thế hệ, phần lớn người cao tuổi không nói tiếng Pháp, tất cả người trung niên và trẻ đều không nói tiếng Việt, nhưng họ sống chan hòa, ấm áp ở đó trong bối cảnh không khác Việt Nam là mấy, với giàn bầu, bí trước hiên nhà, bụi tre ngoài bờ rào, và cả buổi lên đồng của một phụ nữ quê gốc Bắc đã từng về Sài Gòn cầu học bà thầy để nối nghiệp tổ tông.

Tôi chào một bà da đen cao tuổi nghe giới thiệu là nói tiếng Việt: “Dì quê ở đâu?”. Bà cười móm mém: “Tui người Sài Gòn”. Thì ra bà từ Ấn Độ qua Sài Gòn phụ bán trong tiệm vải – của mấy ông hồi xưa gọi là Bảy Chà. Bà lấy lính Tây, rồi suốt hơn nửa đời người sống ở Cafi vẫn đau đáu nhớ “Sài Gòn mình”.

Sài Gòn quê tôi, bây giờ, có các sinh viên người Thái, Nhật, Pháp, Bỉ, Phần Lan, Hoa Kỳ, Hồng Kông, Singapore… đang cùng học tập, đàn hát, cùng đi chăm sóc người khiếm thị ở thành phố, đi xây thư viện cho thiếu nhi vùng sâu với sinh viên người Việt ở trường đại học Hoa Sen, các bạn trẻ này cũng từ mọi miền đất nước về làm “sinh viên Sài Gòn” tại Hoa Sen.

Sài Gòn quê tôi, bây giờ, bên cạnh nhiều cặp vợ chồng trẻ mới ra riêng, những Ôsin nói đủ thứ giọng vùng, miền, còn có những bạn hàng xóm người Hàn, người Phi, người Anh, người Mỹ cùng sống trong một chung cư vùng ven, gặp nhau mỗi ngày trong chợ Phước Long – một cái chợ quê ở Nhà Bè xưa, đã dời về đây từ ngày xây dựng chung cư, nơi quần tụ dân tứ xứ – cùng ăn tô phở Việt và hưởng thú ngồi cà phê những sáng cuối tuần thư thả.

Sài Gòn quê tôi, hồi nào tới giờ, vẫn sôi động mà bình dị, dung nạp sự đa dạng, có khi hỗn độn, nhưng luôn rạch ròi phải quấy, đúng sai, giữa đường thấy chuyện bất bình là ra tay hay lên tiếng. Có điều, không được nói suông, “chém gió” ở đây, người ta cười, người ta khinh nữa. Sài Gòn quê tôi là nơi ở thì vui, đi thì nhớ, song có thể gặp lại ở nhiều nơi, như một thứ “căn cước”, bản sắc mà người ta tự hào về nó, nhưng cũng sẵn sàng chia sẻ nó cho bất cứ người cơ nhỡ, khó khăn, cho bất cứ tấm lòng chân thật nào tìm tới nó.

Bây giờ, bỗng dưng nghe nói nhiều về kỳ vọng “khôi phục” hòn ngọc Viễn Đông. Người Sài Gòn thích danh xưng hòn ngọc Viễn Đông lắm chứ. Nhưng chúng tôi hiểu ngọc đó không phải ở hào nhoáng người đông phố lớn, những tòa nhà chọc trời hay những dòng tiền tuôn chảy không phân biệt đục trong, dơ sạch. Ngọc Viễn Đông, giữ được hay không, còn hay mất, là ở con người, người Sài Gòn, mà không nhất thiết phải “chôn nhau cắt rún” ở đây.

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