60 năm Sài Gòn trong tôi

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Tượng đài Thủy Quân Lục Chiến giữa công viên Sài Gòn trước năm 1975 nay đã không còn. Văn Quang viết: “Tôi đứng trước Nhà Hát Thành Phố nhìn cảnh “vườn không nhà trống” đó mà ngậm ngùi nhớ tới pho tượng Thủy Quân Lục Chiến sừng sững đứng bảo vệ thành phố ngày nào, và nhớ tới những đồng đội TQLC đã ngã xuống hoặc giờ này đã ở khắp phương trời xa.

‘Nhưng với tôi, Sài Gòn vẫn là Sài Gòn từ trong tâm thức mình, từ trong tận cùng tim óc mình. Thế là đủ và tôi lại phải sống cũng như những người Sài Gòn khác, bất chấp gian khổ.’

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Thương xá Tax

Hai tuần nay người Sài Gòn xôn xao về một số công trình xưa cũ sẽ bị phá bỏ lấy đất làm tàu điện ngầm. Rầm rộ nhất là khu thương xá Tax đã bị “bao vây” bởi những hàng rào chắn chạy dài và tất cả các cửa hàng trong thương xá này phải dời đi vào tháng 10 này để làm một siêu thị 40 tầng văn minh hơn. Hầu như cả thành phố xôn xao, người ta kéo đến mua hàng giảm giá đông như hội. Và cũng có nhiều người đến để nhìn lại chút kỷ niệm xưa với một công trình kiến trúc được xây dựng từ xa xưa khiến bất cứ ai dù chỉ sống ở thành phố này ít năm cũng cảm thấy tiếc nuối. Lứa tuổi già đã có từng hơn nửa thế kỷ với Sài Gòn bỗng nhận ra cái khu thương xá đó không chỉ gắn liền với thành phố mà còn gắn liền với cả gia đình mình.

Hầu như gia đình nào cũng đã từng đưa nhau vào đây mua sắm vài thứ đồ dùng lặt vặt hoặc chỉ dạo quanh, ăn một ly kem, uống một ly cà phê. Nỗi buồn vẩn vơ thật nhưng lại rất sâu sắc như người ta vừa lấy đi một phần đời mình. Bởi cái mất đi đã từng có những kỷ niệm với người thân quen không bao giờ tìm lại được nữa. Người mất kẻ còn, người ra đi, kẻ ở lại đã từng cùng nhau đến đấy.

Đường Lê Lợi phía Thương Xá TAX chỉ còn một lối đi nhỏ.
Đường Lê Lợi phía Thương Xá TAX chỉ còn một lối đi nhỏ.

Và còn một số công trình gắn liền với Sài Gòn chẳng phải chỉ là biểu tượng mà còn là da thịt của một thành phố từng được vinh danh là “hòn ngọc viễn đông” này cũng sắp mãi mãi biến mất để nhường chỗ cho công trình ga tàu điện ngầm đầu tiên của tuyến Metro số 1 Bến Thành – Suối Tiên. Dẫu biết vạn vật đổi dời không có gì là vĩnh cửu cả nhưng cái gì quá thân quen mất đi cũng thấy lòng trống rỗng. Có khi chỉ một cửa hàng như quán cơm bình dân Bà Cả Đọi, tiệm cắt tóc Đàm, nước mía Viễn Đông… mất tích vĩnh viễn, thay vào đó là những tòa nhà chọc trời, những cửa hàng choáng lộn cũng thấy nó lạnh lùng xa lạ.

Người còn ở trong nước xót xa, người Việt ở nước ngoài tiếc nuối, đó là điểm những người thân quen gặp nhau ở nỗi nhớ nhung tiếc nuối này. Tôi đã đọc khá nhiều bài viết từ nước ngoài và e mail của bạn bè chia sẻ nỗi hoài niệm đó. Như Thế Hải từ Hawaii đã mượn hai câu thơ bất hủ của Bà Huyện Thanh Quan, chia sẻ cùng bè bạn khắp nơi khi nhớ về những cái sắp mất đi của Sài Gòn: “Lối xưa xe ngựa hồn thu thảo. Nền cũ lâu đài bóng tịch dương.”Với một người còn ở lại như tôi, đã hơn nửa thế kỷ gắn bó với hòn ngọc viễn đông này, hai tuần nay càng thấy lòng hoài cổ dâng trào. Nhớ, nhớ đến từng chi tiết từ cái bước chân đầu tiên đặt lên đất Sài Thành, nhớ từng ngõ ngách, từng nhân vật thuộc về quá khứ ấy cho đến ngày nay. Mặc cho Sài Gòn đã có nhiều tang thương dâu biển, từ cái tên thành phố đến những con đường đã thay họ đổi tên, từ con người đến xã hội cho đến cả cái cách sống cũng đã khác xưa nhiều lắm.

Chẳng trách khi xã hội đổi thay, người ta chép miệng than: “Trời làm một trận lăng nhăng, ông hạ xuống thằng, thằng nhảy lên ông, con đĩ đánh bồng nhảy lên bà lớn” cũng chẳng sai. Nhưng với tôi, Sài Gòn vẫn là Sài Gòn từ trong tâm thức mình, từ trong tận cùng tim óc mình. Thế là đủ và tôi lại phải sống cũng như những người Sài Gòn khác, bất chấp gian khổ. Có chăng chỉ là nỗi ngẩn ngơ khi những dấu tích xưa dần mất đi, chẳng bao giờ tìm lại được.

Trong nỗi hoài niệm sâu sắc ấy nhiều buổi chiều đứng trong hành lang hẹp chung cư, nhìn lên khung trời cao, hướng về ánh đèn đêm mơ hồ của thành phố, tôi cố tưởng tượng lại đó vẫn là khung trời xưa, tôi nhớ lại những năm tháng dài tôi sống ở Sài Gòn. Ở đây không chỉ có cảnh quan mà còn có cả những nhân vật là bạn hoặc là người tôi đã từng gặp, từng quen, từng biết đến. Người ở đâu bây giờ? Có biết Sài Gòn của chúng ta đang có rất nhiều người đang nhớ đang mong các “bạn ta” không?

Bước chân đầu tiên trên đất Sài Gòn

 Bước chân đầu tiên trên đất Sài Gòn
Bước chân đầu tiên trên đất Sài Gòn

Thế mà 60 năm rồi đấy, kể từ ngày tôi mới đặt chân lên thành phố Sài Gòn. Tôi nhớ như in, ngày đầu tiên ấy. Cuối tháng 1 năm 1954, sau hai tháng học ở Trường Sĩ Quan Thủ Đức, ngày thứ bảy chúng tôi được đi phép ở Sài Gòn. Niềm mơ ước của tôi từ những ngày còn nhỏ ở trường trung học, ước gì có ngày mình được vào Sài Gòn. Niềm mơ ước ấy còn rộn ràng hơn khi khóa học sĩ quan khai giảng. Thủ Đức – Sài Gòn chỉ có hơn 10 cây số, tuy chỉ cách thành phố rất gần nhưng theo đúng chương trình khóa học, hai tháng sau chúng tôi mới được đi phép. Mấy anh “Bắc kỳ” nôn nao hỏi thăm mấy ông bạn “Nam Kỳ” về Sài Gòn. Từ cái xe taxi nó ra sao, đi thế nào, bởi hồi đó miền Bắc chưa hề có taxi, cho đến Chợ Lớn có những gì… Mấy ông bạn Nam Kỳ tha hồ tán dóc. Đấu óc tôi cứ lơ mơ về cái chuyến đi phép này.

Rồi ngày đi phép cũng đến, một nửa số sinh viên sĩ quan (SVSQ) đi phép mặc bộ tenue sortie là ủi thẳng tắp, áo bốn túi, chemise trắng tính, thắt cravate đen đàng hoàng, giầy đánh bóng lộn có thể soi gương được. Vô phúc quên cái gì là bị phạt ở lại ngay. Nhưng hầu như chưa có anh nào bị phạt. Đoàn xe GMC của trường chở chúng tôi chạy vèo vèo vào thành phố. Ôi cái cửa ngõ vào thành phố hồi đó chưa có gì lộng lẫy mà chúng tôi cũng mở to mắt ra nhìn. Đoàn xe “diễu” qua vài con phố rồi dừng lại trên đường Hai Bà Trưng (hồi đó còn gọi là đường Paul Blanchy), ngay phía sau Nhà Hát Lớn Thành Phố mà sau này là Trụ Sở Hạ Nghị Viện VNCH.

Cú nhảy từ sàn xe GMC xuống con đường Hai Bà Trưng là bước chân đầu tiên của tôi đến đất Sài Thành hoa lệ. Ông Hồ Trung Hậu là dân miền Nam chính hiệu, ông đã hứa hướng dẫn tôi đi chơi… cho khỏi “ngố”. Chúng tôi đi bộ vào con đường nhỏ bên hông Nhà Hát Thành Phố và khách sạn Continental, vòng ra trước bùng binh Catinat – Lê Lợi (hồi đó còn gọi là Boulevard Bonard) và Nhà hát TP. Nhìn mặt trước nhà hát TP có mấy bức tượng bà đầm cứ tưởng… mình ở bên Tây.

Lúc đó đã có nhà hàng Givral rồi, nhưng tôi vẫn còn “kính nhi viễn chi” cái nhà hàng văn minh lịch sự giữa thành phố lớn rộng đó, chưa dám mơ bước chân vào. Ông Hậu vẫy một cái taxi chở chúng tôi về nhà ông. Taxi hồi đó toàn là loại deux cheveaux, nhỏ hẹp sơn hai màu xanh vàng. Khi bước lên xe, đồng hồ con số chỉ là 0, đi quãng nào số tiền nhảy quãng đó.

Trong ngày đầu tiên, tôi ngu ngơ làm quen với không khí Sài Gòn qua gia đình anh em ông Hậu. Hôm sau ông bạn tôi đi với bồ nên tôi bắt đầu cuộc solo giữa thành phố xa lạ này. Tất cả Sinh Viên SQ đều không được đi xe buýt hay xích lô, phải đi taxi. Nhưng lệnh là lệnh, chúng tôi học các đàn anh khóa trước, cởi áo bốn túi, bỏ cravate, cất cái nón đi là lại tha hồ vung vẩy.

Trở thành người Sài Gòn từ bao giờ

VQ11Nơi tôi đến đầu tiên là Chợ Lớn. Một cuốc taxi từ giữa trung tâm TP đến cuối Chợ Lớn mất 12 đồng. Tôi tìm đến khách sạn rẻ tiền của mấy thằng bạn Bắc Kỳ ở đường Tản Đà, một con phố nhỏ, ba bốn thằng thuê chung một phòng cũng chẳng có “ông mã tà” nào hỏi đến. Chợ Lớn hồi đó tấp nập hơn ở Sài Gòn, con phố Đồng Khánh chi chít những khách sạn, hàng ăn, cửa tiệm tạp hóa lu bù tưởng như mua gì cũng có. Chúng tôi cũng biết cách chui vào Kim Chung Đại Thế Giới xem thiên hạ đánh bạc. Hôm đó có anh Nguyễn Trọng Bảo cùng Đại Đội tôi nhưng lớn hơn chúng tôi vài tuổi và là một cặp với Nguyễn Năng Tế (lúc đó mới là người yêu của nữ diễn viên điện ảnh Kiều Chinh). Anh thử đánh “tài xỉu”, may mắn làm sao, một lúc sau đó anh được khoảng vài trăm ngàn. Thế là chúng tôi xúi anh “ăn non”, không chơi nữa, rủ nhau đi ăn.

 Bắt đầu từ hôm đó chúng tôi đi “khám phá” Sài Gòn và rồi theo cùng năm tháng trở thành người Sài Gòn lúc nào không biết. Càng có nhiều thăng trầm chúng tôi càng gắn bó với Sài Gòn hơn.

Lần thứ hai trở lại Sài Gòn

Tôi lại nhớ ngày trở về Sài Gòn sau hơn 12 năm đi tù cải tạo từ Sơn La đến Vĩnh Phú rồi Hàm Tân. Đó là vào buổi chiều tháng 9 năm 1987. Khi đoàn xe thả tù cải tạo bị giữ lại nhà giam Chí Hòa nghe các ông quan chức trấn an về số phận chúng tôi khi được trở về, khoảng hơn 5 giờ chiều chúng tôi mới được thoát ra khỏi cánh cửa sắt nhà tù Chí Hòa. Ngay từ cổng trại tù đã có đoàn quay phim đợi sẵn để quay cảnh “vui mừng đoàn tụ” của tù nhân, chắc là để chứng tỏ cái sự “khoan hồng bác ái” của nhà nước cho những thằng may mắn không chết trong ngục tù. Lại là lần thứ hai tôi đặt chân lên đất Sài Gòn nhưng với tư cách khác giữa một thành phố đã đổi chủ.

Thấy cái cảnh sẽ bị quay phim, Trần Dạ Từ kéo tôi lên vỉa hè đi lẫn trong đám thân nhân được vận động ra đón tù cùng những người dân tò mò nhình “cảnh lạ”. Tránh được cái máy quay phim, chúng tôi đi gần như chạy ra khỏi con phố nhỏ này. Ra đến đường Lê Văn Duyệt, chúng tôi đi chậm lại, nhìn đường phố mà cứ thấy đường phố đang nhìn chúng tôi với một vẻ xa lạ và xót thương? Trần Dạ Từ còn lại ít tiền, anh rủ tôi ghé vào đường Hiền Vương ăn phở. Chẳng biết là bao nhiêu năm mới lại được ăn tô phở Hiền Vương đây.

Tôi chọn quán phở ngay sát cạnh tiệm cắt tóc Đàm mà mấy chục năm tôi cùng nhiều bạn bè vẫn thường đến cắt tóc. Có lẽ Trần Dạ Từ hiểu rằng anh về đoàn tụ cùng gia đình chứ còn tôi, vợ con đi hết, nhà cửa chẳng còn, sẽ rất cô đơn, nên anh níu tôi lại. Ngồi ăn tô phở tưởng ngon mà thấy đắng vì thật ra cho đến lúc đó tôi chưa biết sống ra sao giữa thành phố này.

Ở tiệm phở bước ra, chúng tôi đi bên nhau dưới ánh đèn chập choạng của con đường Duy Tân mà Phạm Duy gọi là con đường Đại Học “uống ly chanh đường, uống môi em ngọt.” Đến ngã tư Phan Đình Phùng, tôi chia tay người bạn tù Trần Dạ Từ, đi lang thang trong cô đơn, trong bóng tối của chính đời mình. Bây giờ tôi mới hiểu hết nghĩa của sự cô đơn là thế nào. Tôi bắt đầu cuộc sống lưu lạc trên chính quê hương mình.
Tôi tìm về nhà ông anh rể đã từng nuôi nấng tôi suốt những năm tháng trong tù. Bắt đầu từ đó tôi trở thành người Sài Gòn khác trước. Và rồi với những cùng khổ, những khó khăn, tôi đã tự mình đứng lên. Bởi tôi thấm thía rằng thằng bạn đồng minh xỏ lá đã phản phé mình, lúc này không ai cứu mình cả, anh không vượt qua nó, nó sẽ đè chết anh. Vì thế cho đến bây giờ sống giữa Sài Gòn, tôi phải là người Sài Gòn và mãi mãi sẽ là người Sài Gòn. Làm được cái gì hay chết bẹp dí là do mình thôi.

Tác giả thẫn thờ đứng nhìn công trường Lam Sơn đang bị phá bỏĐi tìm hoài niệm

Tôi không lan man về chuyện cũ tích xưa nữa, bởi nói tới những ngày tháng đó chẳng biết bao giờ mới đủ. Cho đến hôm nay, 25 tháng Tám năm 2014, hơn 60 năm ở Sài Gòn, mọi người đang xôn xao về những đổi thay lớn của Sài Gòn, tôi không thể ngồi yên. Tôi muốn chính mắt mình được nhìn thấy những thay đổi ấy. Mặc dù qua 2 lần nằm bệnh viện và với cái tuổi trên tám mươi, tôi đã mất sức nhiều, hầu như suốt ngày ngồi nhà đã từ ba tháng nay. Tôi điện thoại cho Thanh Sài Gòn rủ anh đi thăm “cảnh cũ người xưa”. Chúng tôi vào phở Hòa, môt tiệm phở nổi tiếng từ trước năm 1975 cho đến nay. Con đường Pasteur đan kín xe cộ, tiệm phở Hòa có vẻ tấp nập hơn xưa. Bạn khó có thể tìm lại một chút gì đó của “muôn năm cũ”. Tô phở bị “Mỹ hóa” vì cái tô to chình ình và miếng thịt cũng to tướng, có lẽ ông bà chủ đã học theo phong cách những tiệm phở VN ở Mỹ. Nó “to khỏe” chứ không còn cái vẻ “thanh cảnh” như xưa nữa.

Sau đó, nơi tôi tìm đến đầu tiên chính là Thương Xá Tax. Vừa đến đầu hai con đường gặp nhau Pasteur – Lê Lợi đã nhìn thấy một hàng rào bằng tôn chạy dài. Đường Lê Lợi chỉ còn đủ một lối đi nhỏ dẫn đến Thương Xá Tax và công viên Lam Sơn. Chiếc xe gắn máy len lỏi cho đến tận cuối đường Lê Lợi sát mép đường Tự Do.

Chúng tôi đứng trước cửa TX Tax đang bày ra cảnh vô cùng vắng vẻ, chỉ có tôi và anh bảo vệ nhìn nhau. Anh thừa biết tôi đến đây để làm gì. Anh bảo vệ cũng không còn làm cái nhiệm vụ cao quý là mở cửa đón khách, anh để mặc tôi tự do đẩy cánh cửa kính nặng chịch đi vào trong khu thương mại. Đèn đuốc vẫn thắp sáng choang, chiếc thang máy cuốn vẫn lặng lẽ chạy không một bóng người. Nó mang một vẻ gì như người ta vẫn lặng lẽ theo sau một đám tang.

Trong quầy hàng đầu tiên, điều khiến tôi chú ý là hàng chữ nổi bật hàng đại hạ giá (Big Sale) tới 70% đỏ loét chạy dài theo quầy hàng và hàng chữ “TẠM BIỆT THƯƠNG XÁ TAX”.

VQ17Tôi cố gợi chuyện với cô chủ hàng xinh xắn: Cô phải đề là “TỪ BIỆT” THƯƠNG XÁ TAX mới đúng chứ, sao lại là “TẠM BIỆT”? Cô hàng trẻ đẹp thở dài ngao ngán: “Ấy người ta còn hứa khi nào căn nhà 40 tầng làm xong sẽ cho chúng tôi được ưu tiên thuê cửa hàng đấy.” Nhưng ngay sau đó cô lại lắc đầu: “Hứa là hứa chứ khi đó mình không cổ cánh, đút lót thì đừng hòng bén mảng tới, ông có tin không?”

Bị hỏi ngược, tôi đâm lúng túng ấp úng nói lảng: Phải đợi tới lúc đó mới biết được. Cô bán hàng quay đi, dường như cô chẳng tin gì cả.

Các quầy hàng khác vẫn mở cửa, mỗi gian hàng chỉ còn lại vài ba người, chắc toàn là những ông bà chủ. Tôi nghĩ họ đang làm công việc khác chứ không để bán hàng. Có ai mua đâu mà bán. Tôi đến hỏi thăm vài ông bà chủ cửa hàng, không tìm thấy bất cứ nụ cười nào trên những khuôn mặt buồn hiu ấy.

Có lẽ vài tuần nay, người đi tìm đồ hạ giá đã “khuân” đi khá nhiều rồi, lúc này những thứ hàng còn lại không còn giá trị nữa. Tuy nhiên cửa hàng nào cũng còn bề bộn hàng ế. Nhìn lên tầng lầu cũng vậy, nó còn vắng vẻ thê thảm hơn.

Tôi bước lên mấy bậc của bục gỗ, ghé vào một tiệm bán máy hình còn nguyên si bởi ông chủ quyết không giảm giá. Tôi hỏi lý do, ông có vẻ liều:

– Thà ế chứ không giảm.
Tôi lại tò mò hỏi tiếp:
– Vậy là ông có một cửa hàng ở nơi khác nữa?
Ông lắc đầu:
– Không.
Tôi hỏi:
-Vậy ông sẽ làm gì?
Câu trả lời của ông cụt lủn:
– Về quê làm ruộng.
Tôi yên lặng trước sự bất bình đó. Đứng nhìn hàng loạt máy hình, máy quay phim đủ loại còn nằm rất thứ tự trong tủ kính sáng bóng. Tôi lại hỏi:
– Chắc họ phải đền bù cho ông những thiệt hại này chứ?
– Chưa có xu nào cả. Thời hạn bắt di dời nhanh quá, trở tay không kịp.

Tôi nghĩ chắc ông này cũng chỉ là người đi thuê lại cửa hàng của một ông nhà giàu nào đó mà thôi, ông có vẻ bất cần đời. Tôi từ giã, ông chỉ gật đầu nhẹ.

Nhìn sang hàng loạt cửa hàng vàng bạc đá quý gần như vẫn còn nằm nguyên vẹn và không một bóng khách vãng lai. Các bà, các cô tha hồ nhìn nhau ăn cơm hộp. Tôi có cảm tưởng một thành phố chết vì chiến tranh gần kề hay vì một nạn dịch nào đó.

Vậy mà tôi vẫn còn đi vơ vẩn trong cái không gian như nghĩa trang sống đó. Tôi đi tìm hình bóng của một thời dĩ vãng, nào vợ con, nào bè bạn, nào những người xa lạ trong cái nhịp thở rộn ràng thân thiện của tất cả Sài Gòn xưa ở chốn này. Chẳng bao giờ trở lại. Tôi muốn gọi tên tất cả trong hoài niệm tận cùng sâu lắng.

Trước cửa Công Ty Cấp Nước TP, nơi tác giả đặt chân lên TP Sài Gòn 60 năm trước.
Trước cửa Công Ty Cấp Nước TP, nơi tác giả đặt chân lên TP Sài Gòn 60 năm trước.

Ngậm ngùi nhìn công viên Lam Sơn trống rỗng

Rồi tôi cũng phải bước ra. Trở về với thực tại, nhưng vẫn gặp cái vắng lặng của vỉa hè chạy dài theo đại lộ Nguyễn Huệ. Dường như chỉ còn có Thanh Sài Gòn ngồi ngất ngư với “người xưa trong ảnh” của một ô quảng cáo vuông vắn phía ngoài thương xá.

Chúng tôi đi qua khu công viên Lam Sơn, lúc này đã được phá sạch, chỉ còn vài cây cổ thụ cao lêu nghêu bên cạnh “công trường” đang làm, dường như hàng cây đứng chờ giờ hành quyết như các “đồng nghiệp” của nó đã bị đốn hạ vài hôm trước. Các bác thợ quần áo xanh, dây đeo chằng chịt đã và đang dọn dẹp cho công trường trống rỗng. Tôi đứng trước Nhà Hát Thành Phố nhìn cảnh “vườn không nhà trống” đó mà ngậm ngùi nhớ tới pho tượng Thủy Quân Lục Chiến sừng sững đứng bảo vệ thành phố ngày nào và nhớ tới những đồng đội TQLC đã ngã xuống hoặc giờ này đã ở khắp phương trời xa.

 Chắc hẳn bạn còn nhớ ngay cạnh đó là góc bùng binh Nguyễn Huệ – Lê Lợi còn là nơi tổ chức đường hoa vào dịp Tết. Gia đình nào chẳng một lần kéo nhau đi giữa đường hoa với tâm trạng rộn ràng của một ngày hội hoa xuân. Từ năm nay sẽ mất hẳn, chẳng bao giờ thấy bóng dáng mùa xuân ở đây nữa.

Cuối cùVQ19ng tôi trở lại nơi mà lần đầu tiên tôi đặt chân lên TP Sài Gòn. Tôi đã nhảy xuống xe GMC ở đây, đúng nơi này, phía sau Nhà Hát Thành Phố, bây giờ là trụ sở của Tổng Công Ty Cấp Nước của TP. Mặt đường nhựa chẳng có gì thay đổi, nó cũng nhẵn mòn như những con đường nhựa khác, nhưng với tôi nó là một dấu son đáng nhớ nhất trong đời. Vậy mà đã đúng 60 năm rồi sao?
Mai này Sài Gòn sẽ còn mất đi nhiều thứ nữa như vòng xoay trước cửa Chợ Bến Thành, một biểu tượng mà bất cứ ai đã đến Sài Gòn dù chỉ một lần cũng không thể nào quên. Đó là những thứ sẽ mất đi để làm tuyến metro số 1 Bến Thành – Suối Tiên. Ngoài tuyến metro số 1, còn xây dựng thêm 6 tuyến metro khác. Chúng ta sẽ mất đi nhiều di tích xưa cũ. Sài Gòn sẽ đổi khác rất nhiều, để lại trong người Sài Gòn dù ở đâu cũng thấy cảm thấy một nỗi bùi ngùi, nhớ tiếc. 60 năm Sài Gòn, hồn ở đâu bây giờ?

VĂN QUANG

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